As a cobra, Mumbai undulates along the Arabian Sea. With its 19 million people, the capital of the State of Maharashtra brims with energy. Always in motion, the crowd clings to trains or is piled up in taxis ready to make the soul. For the visitor arrived from the airport, Marine Drive, headquarters of major hotels, offers the first contact with the city and the sea, and yellow and battered. Under a veiled sky, an oil platform stands in some cables from incandescent and empty beaches. Is no skyscraper in sight but, everywhere, from huge camps of soft cardboard without water, electricity, and sewage. A poverty-stricken population there survives, too poor to accommodation "hard." Absolute contrast with the beautiful districts such as Pali Hill that criss-cross of limousines with tinted Windows and the halls of luxurious buildings are protected by armed guards.
Another vision: the new district of Bandra, a permanent site including arteries and new construction, large blocks of glass glassy, have not been included on the plans. Becoming the centre of affairs of Mumbai, Bandra welcomes the major financial institutions as the seat of the National Stock Exchange, banks ISICI Bank and State Bank of India and the Diamond Exchange. First global consumer of gold, the India is also the main centre of size of rough stones. Not far out of Earth's future Bandra Curla Complex, a huge shopping centre all glass and marble grey and pink, which proudly announces the next implementation of a Rolls Royce dealership.

Paradoxical Mumbai. While kissing in public can claim 50 rupees to fine and the bikini is forbidden Beach, a surdiplômée generation climbs speed levels of multinationals. At the time where the India prohibits the consumption of Coca-Cola, another American giant, Pepsico, offers the seat of his presidency to Indra Nooyi, former student of Yale born in Madras. The writer and diplomat Shashi Tharoor classifies the population from the top of the pyramid of the richest billionaires and millionaires in dollars and euros, "which does represent that 6 million people, or 1 million households." Then would come the consumers of luxury products, either some 150 million people. The middle classes are a little less than 275 million people, as well as those who hope to one day access. The poor would be another 210 million 1. "A box of"shadows"which Indian society, indeed, don't know what to do.
The castes are the backbone of the company
Merchants, professionals, industrial, former nobles formed clans of power and money. They are located at the top of the pyramid of the very septate castes which still form the backbone of the Indian society 2. Their heirs are studying in England and now primarily in the United States. Mumbai, this network of privileged English has its headquarters. The Wink, with Italian bartender, DJ American and sushi, or the Seïjo and its plant walls. The Wellington Club, founded by the English in 1917, makes available to its members six tennis courts, golf, swimming pool... Youth travel and intends to marry by love. PAS evident in a country where the marriage is always the alliance of two families and not that of two people. Divorce then cause tragedies, inexhaustible source of inspiration for filmmakers in Bollywood. As in China, the middle class in rapid constitution is, as soon as it has the means, large consumer of Western products. Even luxury. Ray Ban, Wrangler and other Nike it is wrong that display their aguichantes pubs. The clothing glove brand offered Pooja Bedi star as Ambassador. But what this young server, an employee of the Deccan Odyssey, new palace five stars His 100 monthly euros represent a good salary at the local level, but they allow him to "dream" these foreign brands. All Mumbaïotes are the free show of the Gateway of India, the famous arch located just above the harbour. The pier leave the ferries for the rock caves of Garapuri Island, and catamarans private to pristine beaches to an incredible luxury cottages. Opposite deploys the white façade of the Taj palace built a hundred years ago by J.N. Tata, founder of the renowned luxury hotel chain. The Taj group belongs to the sprawling conglomerate Tata. Located in the heart of the old British Colaba, the palace offers a concentrated in the West on the equivalent of a single block: prestigious brands like Vuitton and Moschino, jewellers, antique shops, a conditioning the pastry, sushi bar Wasabi caterer and price - even for a European. The Chanel House is negotiating a location for a future shop. In the surrounding streets, beautiful Windows like those of Oogan and its selection of Indian designers who sells EUR 4 000 piece of dresses
muslin sequins or café Leopold, stop appreciated businessmen for his excellent iced mocha. Servers are sometimes strike that their boss pay... lower taxes!1 million euros for 60 m2
As London and New York, Bombay is one of the most expensive cities for shelter. It takes up to 1 million euros to become owner of a 60 m2! Typical of this golden youth, fashion designer Arjun Khanna is the head of a small manufacturing company which makes live sixty families. In his apartment filled with antiques and held by three servants, he confesses his nostalgia for his years in London, the famous Saint Martin School of Design. Abhay Singh, young fashion photographer, offspring of a clan of rajputs warriors - at the top of the pyramid of power - receives in his Pali Hill two-piece. His monthly salary of $ 3,500 per month makes it a true privileged. "My father was a banker, my Professor mother." "I have a marriage of love with the approval of my parents, but I have obeyed if they had imposed me a wife", says. A photograph shown in traditional dress the day of his marriage, white jodhpurs and Cavalier jacket. "Travel, money, beautiful girls and people, it's great." "But the black point, is the mandatory piston", recognizes. Proud of his country and its culture, Abhay also regrets this unfortunate habit that have some Indian to launder the skin for the Western air.
Before Indigo, another address to the mode, drivers sleep in limousine while their masters are soaring in the game. Javed Tapia, accompanied by his lovely wife Hindu and a Court of admirers, confesses annual $ 500,000 in salary. This thirty years is at the head of the Clover Group, her hair fifteen companies of computer science. His family converted to islam for two generations. The best way, according to him, to escape the slavery of the castes. "I'm Muslim, but my religion is in my heart." I respect the old, my family, and I'm charitable. Not to be, it is contributing to the imbalance of the India. "The young man graduated from Duke University, the United States, provides that everyone should have equal opportunities in life. "I pay my employees children's school." Some of its gains is also used to finance community works. He is convinced, "the next generation will win lots of money, because India force is enormous: democracy, serenity and... English language!" It has all the advantages.
1. "A middle class like no other", Courrier International, hors série, March-April-May 2006.
2 Brâhames (scholars), Kshastriyas (power), Vaisyas (trade in a broad sense), Sudras (servants), untouchables or Dalits (the oppressed).
BOX .
The second life of Monica Vaziralli
The evening is in full swing: 100 photographers, actors in Bollywood, French champagne, English DJ. The real star: Monica Vaziralli, Princess rajput, photographed, celebrated. In her diaphanous dress embroidered to a muslin of money and in a former jewelry, it is just fabulous. The socialite the most prominent Bombay has its entries at Buckingham Palace - that she willingly said. This Princess of 54 years, wife of industrialist, misses no parade or no marriage of billionaire. His pockets are full of envelopes containing money it offers gift - ritual use here with friends - the great opportunities, particularly in engagement or marriage.
His superb duplex filled with portraits of his grandfather, first General of police of independence, overlooking the Pali Hill district. "My family is old." "It helps in Bombay," she says slyly. Separated by a wayward husband, Monica Vaziralli avoided social ostracism by her name. Deprived of the status and the train of life of a married woman, she had to work and turned into personal shopper. For 250 euros, she welcomes rich foreigners, they opened the doors of a Museum for a dinner or a private party, finds magic a bristol for a traditional marriage or the evening of the British Council of billionaires.
"Any Indian society has a double life." The older generation did not have financial independence and remained confined to the House. Young women cope better. Divorce is not easy. There is not support. "His father, a Hindu contractor, left to marry out of love with a Muslim to 15 years. "But he most referred me for two years." The birth of the child provided the situation. "As a married woman, Monica had to bear the cohabitation with a stepmother who has proven to be abhorrent. "I am now much more free and I am an intelligent work when I left my husband, I didn't sign a cheque. I didn't know what was a tax... Finally, I am pleased!